Recently the County Government of Nyeri began undertaking an aggressive aquaculture program that will see fish farming become an entrenched culture among locals.
Through the Aquaculture Business Development Program (ABDP), the county has seen the number of fish farmers increase from 2,000 in 2013 to 3,192 to date.
And while the majority of the residents of the county are not associated with fish eating, there is an emerging trend in major towns and homes where many people are now embracing fish eating as part of their daily meals.
ABDP is a program jointly funded by the Government of Kenya and the International Fund for Agricultural Development (IFAD).
Its overall goal is to reduce poverty and increase food security and nutrition in rural communities.
Among those who have staked their bet on this newfound venture is Julius Mwangi who is running a fish monger in Nyeri town near the Central Region Commissioners headquarters.
Driven by his passion, Mwangi has made it his mission to serve seafood lovers with dry wet fish right at his eatery.
Mwangi’s says his journey into preparing fish for sale began in utter disappointment.
“I love fresh, well-cooked fish,” he explains after taking a break at his busy hotel.
“But every time I went to buy fish, it had been in the freezer for two or more days, and the freshness was gone. The taste wasn’t the same.” narrates Mwangi who once served as an officer with the Independent Electoral and Boundaries Commission in 2022.
That’s when Mwangi got an idea; why not start his own business and offer Nyeri residents something better.
He saw this as an opportunity to bridge the gap between Lake Victoria’s fish market and Nyeri’s growing demand for the delicacy.
“I thought it would be a great business idea to bring fresh fish directly from the lake or from local fish farmers within the County. Today fish is often delivered within a day, which helps it retain its freshness.” he says.
Prices at the eatery range between sh 300 to sh 400 depending on the size of fish served alongside with greens.
Today his dedication to quality has quickly earned him a loyal customer base that troops to his hotel from lunch time to savour their favourite meal.
Among those who visit his joint include county and national government employees and local business operators.
However, the road to success has not been without its fair share of challenges.
Mwangi recalls the early days when transporting fish from Lake Victoria posed a major problem to his venture.
“The fish would often arrive spoiled,” he says.
“By the time it got to Nyeri, it wasn’t fresh anymore, which would lead to losses. It was frustrating because freshness is the heart of this business.”
But he didn’t give up.
He worked closely with suppliers to find a solution, ensuring the fish arrived on time and in good condition.
This improvement has transformed his business, allowing him to consistently provide the best to his customers.
But he has a word of advice to those intending to venture into a similar business.
“The key to this industry is determination. You have to cook the fish the right way,” he says with a smile.
“That’s what makes it delicious. Cleanliness is not an option but mandatory. Compromise on hygiene and you will be out in the streets the following day without a business.” he points out.
Looking ahead, Mwangi hopes to expand his business by opening a more spacious fish eatery within Nyeri, where he can serve more customers and introduce a wider variety of fish.
Mwangi reflects on the journey that brought him here.
“It’s hard work, but I wouldn’t trade it for anything. Nyeri was the perfect place for this business, and I’m happy to be part of this.” he says with a satisfied smile.
Maureen Gathiga, an ABDP program officer in Nyeri hopes the number of fish eaters will retain an upward trajectory in coming years owing to the increasing number of farmers taking up the venture.
She says the County Government has taken the lead to this end through offering much needed support to farmers including provision of feeds and liners as a boost to their work.
“When we came around in 2013, we had around 2,000 fish farmers but this figure has now risen to 3,192. We have seen the number of fish farmers in Nyeri increasing. We have been doing the fish-eating campaign to make sure Nyeri county knows how to eat fish and try to change the culture although it won’t be 100 per cent successful,” says the officer.
“If you look at Nyeri today you can see an increase in the number of fish eateries in almost every town and street. This was not the case before. Today major hotels within our towns are also offering fish on their menu. Most of the fish have been bought from within the county while the rest come from other ABDP implementing counties,” she told KNA.
The county government is also constructing a modern open-air market in Chaka town where farmers will be selling their fish to their clients.
Ms Gathiga says the market is expected to be completed before the end of this year.
Among people targeted to benefit from the new market include women and youth groups currently undertaking projects on aquaculture.
By Samuel Maina and Njoki Nderitu
